Favourite backpassgae of the day

Exchange Court

It can be found near to to Bull Inn Court, running down ancient sloped from Maiden Lane to Strand- our favourite road.This lane is (yawn) 'Dickensian', and we like to proclaim it a passage of Coxian dimension. The gas-lit southern end oozes atmosphere. It's a creepy, quiet place where only drunks loiter for long. We expect, and find, the now familiar stench of last night's bladder urge.Through the Stuart and Georgian eras, the neighbourhood was alive with seedy, vice-ridden markets. It's not clear whether the alley takes its name from the exchange of goods, or bodily fluids. Later, the court housed a troupe of errand-runners and odd-jobbers known as the Corps of Commissionaires - ex-servicemen with their own special uniform and military band. The Corps is still active today, having transmogrified into a security outfit. Why Use it? To get to the heart of Covent Garden without having to walk past loads of overpriced outdoor-persuits shops. And, as usual, bypass the tourists.

 

ExchangeCourt.jpg

1 Comment 19.2.07 08:27, comment

Oranges & Lemon: tune!

My tune: Oranges and Lemons Rhyme

Every morning from my window I can hear the bells.

 The lovely bells of St.Clement Danes in the middle of Strand. They play at 9am ‘Oranges and Lemons’ a mocking reminder that this is not the St Clements referred to in the poem / rhyme. The history and origin, Strandman can reveal are much more strange and sinister!


The exact date of origin is unknown but there was a Square Dance called 'Oranges and Lemons' dating back to 1665, unfortunately there are no known record of the lyrics which accompanied the dance but is likely that the words were similar to that of the nursery rhyme. The words to "Oranges and lemons" have been much loved by numerous generations of children. The ‘area’ names relate to some of the many churches of London and the tune that accompanies the lyrics emulates the sound of the  ringing of the individual church bells.

The words of the nursery rhyme are chanted by children as they play the game of 'Oranges and lemons' the end of which culminates in a child being caught between the joined arms of two others, emulating the act of chopping off their head! The reason for the sinister last three lines of the lyrics of "Oranges and lemons" are easily explained, they were added to the original rhyme, probably by children! This addition dates to some time before 1783 when the infamous public execution gallows (the Tyburn-tree) was moved from Tyburn-gate (Marble Arch) to Newgate, a notorious prison for both criminals and debtors hence "When will you pay me"?". This move was necessary  to reduce problems caused by the crowds, often exceeding 100,000, gathered along the execution procession route. This stretched along a three mile route from Newgate Prison to Tyburn and around the Tyburn tree itself.

The 'Bells of Old Bailey', or more accurately the tenor bell of St Sepulchre, had been utilised prior to 1783 to time the executions but after the gallows had been moved, Newgate prison (now the site of the Old Bailey) obtained its own bell. As the words to the poem "Oranges and lemons" indicate the unfortunate victim would await execution on 'Death Row' and would be informed by the Bellman of St. Sepulchre by candle light 'here comes the candle to light you to bed', at midnight outside their cell , the Sunday night prior to their imminent fate, by the ringing of the 'Execution Bell' (a large hand bell, which Strandman want one!)  and the recitation of the following :
All you that in the condemned hole do lie, 
Prepare you for tomorrow you shall die; 
Watch all and pray: the hour is drawing near 
That you before the Almighty must appear; 
Examine well yourselves in time repent, 
That you may not to eternal flames be sent. 
And when St. Sepulchre's Bell in the morning tolls 
The Lord above have mercy on your soul.


 The executions commenced at nine o'clock Monday morning  following the first toll of the tenor bell. Who would have thought that "Oranges and lemons" a childrens rhyme could have such a sinister historical connotation?

Origin of the saying "On the Wagon" - meaning a person has stopped drinking alcohol! Prisoners were transported to Tyburn Gallows on a wagon and were allowed one last drink in a pub on the way to their execution. If offered a second drink by a sympathiser the guard would reply,  "No, they're going on the Wagon!"
 

Oranges and Lemons Poem


"Oranges and lemons" say the Bells of St. Clement's
"You owe me five farthings" say the Bells of St. Martin's
"When will you pay me?" say the Bells of Old Bailey"When I grow rich" say the Bells of Shoreditch
"When will that be?" say the Bells of Stepney
"I do not know" say the Great Bells of Bow
"Here comes a Candle to light you to Bed
Here comes a Chopper to Chop off your Head
Chip chop chip chop - the Last Man's Dead."

 

The Bells of St Clements
St Clements is a small church situated in St. Clements Lane, Eastcheap. There have been three Churches on the site starting with the first in the 11th Century when the church is mentioned in a confirmation of grants to Westminster Abbey in 1067. The original old Church was rebuilt in the 15th Century.  The second church was destroyed in 1666 during the Great Fire of London The existing church was rebuilt in 1687 by Sir Christopher Wren (the great architect of St Paul's Cathedral). The "Oranges and lemons" refer to the citrus fruits unloaded at the nearby wharves.

SM

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30.1.07 09:18, comment

GHOST!

Aldwych station has a Ghost! The station was closed in 1994 (not because of ghosts) although it is still currently used for parties and trendy opening nights. However, the 'fluffers', people who clean the tunnels and stations, claim to have been scared by a figure who appears on the tracks at night. The ghost is that of an actress who believes she has not enjoyed her last curtain call, supposedly haunts the station. Aldywch used to be on the site of the old Royal Strand Theatre.

20 Comments 29.1.07 12:21, comment

Down in the tube station at Midnight

 Modern poet and genius in lyric writing Paul Weller describes the feeling we al have had in London....the noises, feelings, people....
The distant echo -
Of faraway voices boarding faraway trains
To take them home to
The ones that they love and who love them forever
The glazed, dirty steps - repeat my own and reflect my thoughts
Cold and uninviting, partially naked
Except for toffee wrapers and this mornings paper
Mr. jones got run down
Headlines of death and sorrow - they tell of tomorrow
Madmen on the rampage
And Im down in the tube station at midnight
I fumble for change - and pull out the queen
Smiling, beguiling
I put in the money and pull out a plum
Behind me
Whispers in the shadows - gruff blazing voices
Hating, waiting
Hey boy they shout - have you got any money?
And I said - Ive a little money and a take away curry,
Im on my way home to my wife.
Shell be lining up the cutlery,
You know shes expecting me
Polishing the glasses and pulling out the cork
And Im down in the tube station at midnight

I first felt a fist, and then a kick
I could now smell their breath
They smelt of pubs and wormwood scrubs
And too many right wing meetings
My life swam around me
It took a look and drowned me in its own existence
The smell of brown leather
It blended in with the weather
It filled my eyes, ears, nose and mouth
It blocked all my senses
Couldnt see, hear, speak any longer
And Im down in the tube station at midnight
I said I was down in the tube station at midnight

The last thing that I saw
As I lay there on the floor
Was jesus saves painted by an atheist nutter
And a british rail poster read have an awayday - a cheap holiday -
Do it today!
I glanced back on my life
And thought about my wife
cause they took the keys - and shell think its me
And Im down in the tube station at midnight
The wine will be flat and the currys gone cold
Im down in the tube station at midnight
Dont want to go down in a tube station at midnight

26.1.07 11:31, comment

The distant echo

The best article I have read about the change when the papers left Fleet Street was written by Bill Hagerty for the BBC:
By Bill Hagerty
Former Fleet Street editor

As Reuters becomes the last news giant to leave London's Fleet Street, one former editor looks back on the street's glory days.

The Fleet Street Orchestra had disbanded by the time I arrived, but the melody lingered on.

What in the 1920s was a 30-strong, classical ensemble had diminished into the Fleet Street All Stars, an itinerant trad jazz group featuring the film critic of the Daily Express on clarinet and a Daily Mirror sub-editor on trumpet.

That disappeared too but The Street itself, rather like Old Man River, kept rock and rolling along until the migration of national newspapers relegated into the background the rhythm that pulsed its pavements.

 

Now even that is gone. With a St Bride's service to mark the departure of Reuters, the last news organisation to vacate what Philip Gibbs famously christened The Street of Adventure, Wednesday is the day the music finally dies.

I spent around a quarter of a century in and around Fleet Street; 25 years roaming a film set of a workplace stocked with larger than life characters and larger than average drinks in The Stab in the Back or The Cock Tavern or El Vino.

Outside the buildings where the production of newspapers filled some 22 hours of most days of the year, The Street was one great watering hole, which, if you walked fast enough, could be traversed pub-to-pub during a rainstorm without getting very wet.

Sanctuary of leather

This is where the giants of the trade would gather at lunchtimes in El Vino to argue over matters of national importance and whose turn it was to buy the next bottle of claret.

Where the old Press Club, a sanctuary of leather and polished wood in Salisbury Court, was an after-hours refuge for those with an unquenchable thirst and possessing the gall to keep waiting for hours the office account taxis lined up outside.

Reuters building
Reuters: The last to leave

And where each newspaper would have its "own" pub or three to which, nonetheless, visitors were welcomed upon production of the wherewithal to pay for a round and a decent line in repartee.

The Mirror, which had crept another hundred yards from the actual Street when relocating from Rolls Buildings to Holborn Circus - after the Second World War, the Telegraph and Express were the only major papers occupying premises on Fleet Street itself - supported a cluster of such refreshment pit stops.

News sub-editors could be found in The Printer's Devil and members of the sports staff in the White Swan but, handily linked to the office by a bridge across Fetter Lane, the Stab was the Savoy of office pubs and a legend in its own opening times.

One giant party

It was in the Stab that Keith Waterhouse, then of the Mirror, picked up the pet Chihuahua of the landlord's wife and called for two slices of bread before attempting to make a dog sandwich.

Fleet Street
Life goes on for Fleet Street
Here pop music writer Harry Doncaster might play the piano, Errol Garner-style, on evenings when he wasn't standing at the bar with visiting chums such as the publicist Les Perrin or singers Matt Munro and Paul Anka.

Features chief sub Des Lyons, cigarette ash tumbling down the front of his worn blazer, was another Stab pianist, especially on Thursday evening "Nights of Magic" when songs were sung, insults and sometimes punches exchanged and marriages crumbled in the heady atmosphere of booze, news and nothing-to-lose.

My memory suggests that one giant, continuous party was roaring through the late 1960s and most of the 70s in the Stab - so nicknamed because of the early bloodletting after the paper's hike up Fetter Lane.

Livers were apparently constructed of concrete
Elsewhere in the village, similar shindigs were almost secretly enlivening a Street that to the intruders seemed outwardly respectable enough unless, that is, they happened to encounter such events as the Great Hopping Race of Christmas 1969 - won by Mirror editor-to-be Mike Molloy after pausing en route to swing from some building works scaffolding.

El Vino, with strict rules concerning serving women at the bar - it didn't - and the required dress code, jackets and ties essential, was Fleet Street's gentleman's club, even if the unruly behaviour of some gentlemen occasionally resulted in them being temporarily barred from the premises.

Express building
The Express's remarkable former building, nicknamed the Black Lubianka
Percy Hoskins, a great Daily Express crime man, held court here, as did Philip Hope-Wallace, the eminent Guardian critic.

Brian McConnell, who in 1974 lurched from a taxi in The Mall to stop a bullet meant for Princess Anne, was usually on hand to deliver gossip about cops and court cases.

El Vino was the melting pot for a trade where word-of-mouth was the favoured method of advertising jobs available, scoops obtained and reputations destroyed.

Nobody ever heard the phrase "number crunchers" applied to newspapers in the days when overstaffing was rife, expense accounts lavish - the queue waiting for hefty advances on Friday evenings at the Mirror was so long it's a wonder that production wasn't impeded - and livers were apparently constructed of concrete.

Yet somehow this disparate, largely dissipated band of brothers and sisters produced some excellent journalism.

Social excesses

That's not to say that the accountants and the dispersal of titles all over town have diminished journalistic standards - the best today is better than ever and other influences are responsible for the worst.

But those who weren't there must find it difficult to appreciate that the camaraderie, the social excesses and the sheer fun of Way Back Then were no more than by-products of a competitive, high-pressure trade in which the sharpest practitioners realised commercial success was only part of its raison d'être.

Old newspaper building
Traces of a news heritage - Scotland's Sunday Post is still based here
Reuters' departure allows the completion of the jigsaw puzzle of a new Fleet Street, removing all traces of the thundering industry that made its name synonymous with the twilight world of the press.

The Stab in the Back is now a pizza restaurant. The old Cock made way for a bank. Brian McConnell still sometimes turned up in El Vino until his death last year - the brilliant Alan Watkins, God bless him, can sometimes be found there still - but the dress code has vanished along with those intellectually stimulating sessions when journalism, if not the world, was put to rights.

"Fleet Street is still my home," wrote Philip Gibbs in 1923, "and to its pavement my feet turn again from whatever part of the world I return."

But the footsteps we hear are only echoes now.

 


Bill Hagerty is a former deputy editor of the Daily Mirror and editor of The People. He now edits the British Journalism Review.

 

SM

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25.1.07 13:17, comment

Run!

IMG_0851_640.jpg

25.1.07 12:22, comment

Snow!

Strand /Fleet st 

 

 

24.1.07 08:11, comment